Kayakers develop a special relationship with their paddle that's a little different from what they share with their boat. A paddle is an extension of your arms, an intimate tool, a trusted friend. But what makes a good paddle, what are the things to look for?

Like many things in life you get what you pay for. The investment in a good paddle can definitely increase your enjoyment. The following points will help you decide which paddle is right for you.

Paddle length

Sea kayak paddles are generally longer than their whitewater cousins. While a whitewater paddler might use a paddle 216 centimeters long on the river, the same paddler would probably be happier with a 220-centimeter paddle on the sea. This is because the sea kayaker principally has to forward paddle rather than use the multitude of whitewater strokes. The longer the paddle the more forward drive you can deliver— but the price is more strain on the arms. The strain comes through having to push more paddle through the air as you move along. If it's windy, the effect is amplified and a longer paddle will be far more difficult and tiring to use than a shorter one.

Most paddles that are sold as sea kayaking paddles are between 218 and 226 centimeters. If you're tall and strong, opt for a longer paddle, if you're shorter or haven't done that much paddling go for a smaller one. If unsure, go shorter rather than longer, as you have to be able to control your paddle at the end of a long, windy day just as much as at the start.

Shaft material

There are basically three categories of material for the paddle shaft: alloy/aluminum, fiberglass and carbon. If you plan on paddling any distance, go for a "softer," lighter fiberglass or carbon paddle. The aluminum and alloy paddles have stiffer shafts, which makes for a more powerful paddle because the force you apply is directly transferred to the water. This is good if you're a sprint racer where you want every bean of energy to be transferred to the water and forward motion. The downside is that your arms will tire quicker and it raises your chance of developing tendonitis.

The principle difference between the fiberglass and carbon shafts (apart from price) is one of strength, with the carbon shafts being stronger. With the more expensive carbon paddles you can order different shaft stiffness depending on how strong a paddler you are.

Blade area and material

Bigger blades have more bite and, with more surface area in the water, render greater power. Of crucial importance for the Sea kayaker, however, is how much blade area you are going to have exposed should a strong wind pick up. A large blade will obviously catch more wind and be more fatiguing to use. For this reason, even if you are a strong paddler, you may find chopping down a few gears and using a smaller blade gets you where you want to go in the same amount of time but with arms at the end of your trip that are good for another day's paddling.

Blade material ranges from plastic to reinforced nylon to carbon. The plastic blades are heavier but reasonably indestructible (and probably won't make you cry if you do break one). Carbon Kevlar blades while tough are lighter and more brittle than plastic thus requiring greater care (and will definitely make you cry if you break one). For the weekend sea kayaker the reinforced nylon is a good compromise between strength, weight and price.

Blade Angle

Paddles designed with beginners in mind have blades set close to 80 degrees. This is because the wrist twisting action is a little easier to get your head around than at lesser angles. However, once you have got the hang of paddling you'll find lesser angles much more comfortable. As with everything there's a compromise as the lesser the angle the more air the blade will catch. Anything between 65-70 degrees you'll find comfortable and practical to use.

Splits

If you are paddling any distance a split paddle is a must. Split paddles detach in the middle allowing you to store them under the bungy cord on the deck of your boat. If you lose your main paddle you've got a spare. It is certainly worth buying at least a cheaper paddle and using it as your spare split paddle.

For Sea kayaking I'm a fan of having my main paddle as a split also. The Quiklok and Smart Shaft connections are strong and don't rotate when you're paddling. Splits are so much more convenient than non-split paddles. They easily fit into the trunk of your car and, when you're camping in some windy bay for the night, can easily be stored inside your kayak.

Cost

Alloy/plastic paddles, such as Quality Kayaks Safari paddle, start at around $65.This makes them suitable for using with groups of beginners where robustness is more important than comfort. From there it moves up to around $135 for the first of the glass-reinforced blades with fiberglass shafts. Beyond that for carbon blades you're looking at $200 plus, moving into beautifully crafted carbon kevlar wing blades at around $300.

Postscript—The Wing blade

Wing blades are to paddles what carvers are to skis; they feel so good! Wing blades do take a little getting used to but after a couple of sessions you'll never look back. They sit so much better in the water and don't shimmy about when you put the power on. This makes them much more efficient and the reason most racing paddlers use them. The blades come in three sizes: small, medium and large, and you can order whatever shaft length you want. Wings do have the disadvantage that they tend to catch the wind a little more (especially side winds), making the small size the most suitable for sea kayakers. Also, you'll need to take a little more care when bracing with a wing blade as their shape may trip you up.

Wings are more expensive and you don't see too many sea kayakers using them, but for the weekend sea kayaker that's looking to refine their paddling— try a wing blade!

Charles Graham is part of the Adventure Philosophy team. Check out their website at www.adventurephilosophy.com.