See the crowds, flee the crowds, and soak in some of the world's greatest wilderness.
April 26th, 2007
Yosemite National Park.
By US Park Service
If you're lucky, you have a go-to hike in your area -- somewhere not too far away that still lets you feel like you're in the middle of nowhere. Somewhere you keep coming back to, hoping the crowds keep heading elsewhere. Somewhere you're not exactly eager to share.
That's one of the best aspects of hiking: it's an escape from civilization. So it's easy to understand why many dedicated hikers are reluctant to hit up America's better-known National Parks -- too many people, too many cars, too many uniformed government officials telling you what you're allowed to do and where.
But this sort of disdain for the mainstream has a price. These parks are popular for a reason -- they're some of the most beautiful spots in the world. They're well-traveled, but they're also devoted to recreation over development. And, if you're willing to explore them fully, they can provide a true wilderness escape.
Here are a few famous National Parks that can still satisfy your craving for the trail less traveled.
OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK (Washington)
Dominating the peninsula at the northwestern tip of the United States, Olympic is home to a massive old-growth temperate rain forest. The Hoh River Trail winds through stands of 500 year-old Sitka spruce, allowing you to get in touch with your inner Ewok.
Because this trail is on the western side of the Olympic mountain range, it requires some driving time to reach it, which tends to keep the crowds smaller. Seattle residents are unlikely to make a day trip to Olympic, opting instead for a hike in the Cascade range or Mt. Rainier.
But you already knew the northwest has huge trees and lots of rain. Olympic also boasts 73 miles of seldom-crowded coastline, where the Pacific Ocean can quickly drown out any thoughts of Back There.
Shi Shi Beach, three hours northwest of the Hoh trailhead, offers eerie rock formations and tidal pools -- plus a no-hassle backcountry permit process that allows you to camp on the sand and build a big honkin' driftwood fire. Just be prepared for wind and wet.
The most conspicuous feature of Olympic is, of course, Mt. Olympus, the highest peak in the youngest mountain range on the continent. At 7,695 feet, it looms large over the park, and if you want to summit, you'd better have ice climbing gear.
Hurricane Ridge, in the northeast area of the park, is a great place to start. It's one of Olympic's most popular destinations -- which means you'll get an initial taste of tourist traffic, then spend the rest of your trip marveling how quiet everything gets once you hike a few hours in.
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK (California)
Heard of this one? Yeah, a few other people have too. Fortunately, almost everybody sticks to the seven square miles of Yosemite Valley. Time to show the other 1,000+ square miles a little love.
Route 120 east provides a quick getaway from the valley, into Tuolumne Meadows and the Tioga Lake Campground. Not a bad spot to chill, and well worth the $15 a night. When you feel up to it, the Dana Plateau offers a three-hour scramble to the top, and rewards you with striking vistas of the Sierra Crest and the Nevada desert.
If your sensibilities are more peak-centric, Mt. Conness stands just to the northwest of the campground, topping out at 12,590 feet. The crowds thin along with the air.
The extra-ambitious can also hike the 35 miles from Tuolumne Meadows to the town of Mammoth Lakes, crossing through Inyo National Forest. You don't have to make it a loop; trailhead taxis or buses can take you back to your car (once you've escaped from civilization long enough, of course).
GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK (Arizona)
Passe? Trampled? Loved to death by gawking summertime hordes?
Then why can't you take your eyes off it once you're there, out on the rim, trying to make your eyes fit the entire view into your brain?
Because the Grand Canyon is freakin' awesome, you wilderness snob. Just make sure to head to the North Rim -- it has fewer amenities, fewer people, and it stays a little cooler in the summer. (However, the Park Service closes the North Rim in the snowy months.) Plus, it's higher up than the South Rim, so you can literally look down on the teeming mass of humanity across the way. Bonus!
From Cape Royal, one of the canyon's more spectacular viewpoints, the North Kaibab Trail winds nine miles down to the oasis of Roaring Springs. It's a manageable day trip, but hiking all the way down to the Colorado River and then back up to the rim is at least a three-day commitment.
Mountain bikers can hit up the North Rim's dirt roads, starting from Point Sublime. Be advised, however, that bikes aren't allowed on hiking trails.
On the way out, make the detour into the town of Lees Ferry, the only place in the area where you can drive to the Colorado River. If it's summertime, you'll welcome a chilly dip into the clear water, sending your dust and grime back through the canyon.
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK (Wyoming, Montana, Idaho)
Apparently there's some sort of geyser here. The road that loops around this giant geyser is not exactly idyllic -- especially when a bear sighting can back up traffic for miles. A good way to carve out some privacy is to pick an attraction away from this central loop, and then stick with it. It may take longer than you like to get there, but the crowds will start dropping away.
The northeast portion of the park is always a good bet. However, make sure to hit up the Yellowstone River on the way -- it's well worth a stop even if it appears to be having a popular day. The Lower Falls portion of the river is nearly twice as tall as Niagara Falls, at 308 feet.
The Lamar River and surrounding Lamar Valley, 20 miles from the Lower Falls, are easily accessible but relatively deserted. This area is one of the best places in the world to spot wolves. Bring binoculars and a willingness to meet dawn on the lookout. The Lamar Valley trailhead provides access to several days' worth of wandering as well.
Yep, we hike to get away. But don't let the jam-packed parking lots fool you -- even the most popular National Parks can be peaceful, deserted, and dramatic if you're willing to do the legwork. These iconic chunks of natural beauty deserve their fame. It would be a shame to stay away.
