The surf zone is a place of endless fascination for me. The ceaseless energy, the thundering power that is at once beautiful and stomach knotting, and the sheer joy of tobogganing down writhing slopes of ocean.

Love it or hate it, the surf is the gateway to open coast adventures and often the final barrier to the sanctuary of terra firma after a long day at sea. Negotiating this zone should not rely on a prayer and roll of the dice. You'll probably keep the prayer on many occasions, but with sound knowledge, skilled paddling and experience you can usually do without the lucky dice.

Let's look at how waves form and how they behave, as this knowledge is fundamental to understanding surf and decision-making. Wave size is a mostly a function of wind strength and the length of time that wind has to act on the sea surface. The latter is known as the “fetch” and explains why very strong local winds may only produce relatively small waves, while a large swell may occur when there is no local wind. Swells can be generated thousands of miles away and by studying a weather map you can usually predict a swell. Deep depressions and concentrated isobars are the swell generators.

The prevailing southwesterly winds across the Tasman typically produce a swell of about two meters on the West Coast of New Zealand. Metphone offers an excellent service in swell forecasting. Call 0900 999, plus the area code for the part of New Zealand you are interested in. Or, check out the Met Service website www.metservice.co.nz. You can even see images of what the current surf conditions actually are at www.surf.co.nz/weather.php. Large waves can be generated by local wind too. A 25-knot wind will raise a sea of 2.5- 4 meters within six hours as a rule of thumb.

Waves arrive in sets, groups of about four to eight waves. Generally the last waves of a set are the biggest and the size of the biggest waves will vary between sets. Patient observation will usually show the biggest waves and some sort of pattern to the sets. But not always... One in 10 waves are one and a quarter times larger the average, while one in 100 are two thirds larger than average. And beware of that one wave in 1,000 that can be twice the average size. Sharp observation out to sea is very important.

When waves enter shallower water, they slow down so the distance between them reduces. They will break when they reach water approximately half as deep as the height of the wave. This can be a beach, bar, reef or other obstruction. Topography affects the surf zone significantly. A beach that gradually becomes shallower will have a broad surf zone, as larger sets break further offshore in the deeper water. A steep beach will have a short break zone, as all the waves tend to reach their breaking depth at about the same place.

Waves are affected by tide as well. An outgoing tide will cause waves to steepen and be more likely to break. Also as the tide recedes waves will begin to break where they have not done for several hours, simply because eventually the critical depth for breaking gets broached by the bigger waves. This can catch you out (as can those extra large ones) in areas with shoals. Usually you can recognize these areas by looking well ahead of where you are, observing the larger waves breaking, but not always. Charts can enable you to anticipate this potential; such areas should be given a wide berth.

Local wind will affect surf, too. A shore wind tends to produce spilling surf, while an offshore wind tends to hold the waves up longer, causing them break suddenly and often violently as plunging surf. The former is great for wave riding the latter formidable and likely to deal out a munching.

“Enough meteorology and hydrology! Tell me how to get in and out through the stuff without getting monstered.”

Right...

Rule number one: if you treat the surf with disrespect, it will teach you some hard lessons.

Sea kayaking into the surf zone is like entering another level of the game. When you start pushing the envelope there's always a chance that it won't go exactly right. When this happens it's a slippery slope you're on. You can easily find yourself upside down in a dumper or being pitch-poled. All bets are off at this stage and you better be prepared for what follows. Cold water immersion and being washing-machined in a wave with your boat beside you are a couple of prospects to consider. A wetsuit and helmet are sound investments.

Rule number two: if you wouldn't swim it, you should think very carefully before you decide to kayak it.

Learn to Eskimo roll and practice so that it works in the surf zone too, not just in a pool. Having your boat fitted out with knee and thigh braces can make a huge difference to your control and your ability to stay in your boat when you get trashed by a wave.

On the beach

Before you leave, ensure your hatch covers are on properly and don't stow anything on the front deck that you don't want to lose. In big surf, even with strong deck bungees, any stuff on the front deck will go. It also causes unnecessary drag when trying to punch through waves. I carry a spilt paddle under the rear bungees only. Everything else I may need for the day is on my person or in the cockpit (clipped to something, or otherwise secured).

Getting out through big surf can be high-energy exercise, so warming up and stretching is a good idea. Assuming your boat is sound and your paddle and spray-deck are in good condition, you are ready to go. Identify the best launch site. Often a protected corner will offer a site with smaller waves. If a rip current can be identified then this will offer a faster way out through the impact zone and the waves will usually be smaller.

Launching

The best launching method will vary with the site. On a gently sloping beach try putting on your spray skirt in the surge or "swash" zone, when a smaller wave set is in progress. When a larger set arrives, the surge will lift you and the boat clear of the sand. This requires good judgment and skirting up quickly. Having the paddle upright in one hand, poling off the sand and pushing with the other hand will get you clear if it's sticky. Fine-grained sand creates friction while shingle beaches are easy to push off from. If you have an unladen boat you may be able to get in your kayak above the water line and lift and push yourself to the water.

In knee-deep water in the shore break zone one can simply step astride the kayak, sit in the seat and quickly apply the spray-deck between waves. On a steep beach a seal entry may be possible if the beach is made of pebbles or boulders. Whichever method you use, it is important to maintain a right angle to the surf and to time your departure with a small set. This may entail holding position in the shore break zone.

In the thick of it

Conserve energy in the soup zone as you wait for the right moment. Once you have decided to go for it, paddle with good technique and resolve. Wasted strokes will tire you and the more out of breath you are the more errors you might make if forced to roll under pressure. Remember as you paddle out through that small set that a large set on its heels will break deeper, so you have a large potential impact zone to get through before you can relax. Sometimes this is harrowing, as each wave you surmount has a larger one behind it in a closer state to breaking. Going hard out through the impact zone will help ensure the set finishes before they break in front of you.

When punching through breaking waves, bury your paddle deep into the wave, lean forward and duck your head to reduce your profile. If you find yourself about to be clobbered by a huge wall of whitewater, consider rolling under until the wave passes, then rolling up again. Often it is the best chance of not getting backward surfed by the wave. “Huge” will mean different things to different people, over time you will discover what you can punch through and what you cannot.

Rule number three: practice! When you need these skills for real is not the time to discover whether you still have them or not. See rule number one.

Okay. So now you're out there beyond the impact zone. Stretched out before you is the coastline and a whole day to spend riding the oceanic swell rolling in across the Tasman. Next problem is how to land in one piece.

Landing in big surf can be an exercise in survival or it can be an exhilarating and fun way to end a days paddling.

In big surf, try to find a landing that will offer some advantage. Establish where the line up is and stay sufficiently outside of this. From offshore it is difficult to read the surf. You can, however, tell whether the surf is dumping or spilling and the swells rolling in beneath you will give you a fair indication of their size. The face will be about twice the height of the wave back. Look for hazards such as reefs and rocks or other people in the water. A kayak can be a lethal weapon in the surf zone. If you are part of a group, establish some paddle signals. Landing one at a time means the first person in, the most experienced, may be able to direct following boaters to the best line.

Stow anything that has made it onto your deck throughout the day. Map, fishing line, drink bottle. Big surf will claim these if you don't. Ditch your paddle leash if you used one. It is far better to lose your paddle than risk getting entangled in a leash in the surf. Lift up your rudder. Leaving your rudder down only slows turns, makes it more difficult to reverse and is prone to damage if you broach into the beach. Paddling straight without a rudder is an essential skill.

Once you have made all your observations and have a sense of the timing of the sets, move in closer to the line up. Don't be half hearted. Choose your moment and go. Edging indecisively closer to shore only eats up precious time and increases the likelihood of being caught by a breaker from behind.

You have a number of options for negotiating the impact zone and which you use will depend on the type of surf and the landing.

Landing between breaks

Essentially this is landing in a window between sets of waves. Wait beyond the break line and be aware that bigger waves will break deeper. Keep looking behind you and when the sea looks flat the set will be over—time to go for it. You are attempting to get to shore before the next wave arrives so you need to paddle hard. This can be scary and impractical in a wide impact zone, as it is a slow way to move through, so is more suited to a break close to shore. In the event that you are caught up by the next set the following method will prove useful.

Between waves and broach

As above, keep a lookout behind as you paddle hard for shore. As a broken wave approaches, turn your boat sideways with a sweep and stern rudder and brace and rail into the wave as it hits. Broaching in this manner means you won't be pitch-poled by the wave lifting the stern. It is essential to lift the shore-side gunwale as you surf sideways and support off the wave with a low brace. (Failing to do this invariably results in a rapid and violent capsize as the gunwale catches the water but your own momentum keeps traveling toward the beach). If you get surfed right into the shallows, exaggerate your lean out over your brace. When you bump the bottom you can easily be rolled toward the beach (If this does happen, flatten yourself against your spray-deck). Make a habit of getting out of your kayak on the surf side. A kayak hit by a wave can easily bust its owner's leg if you are on the shore side of it.

Surf and broach

This is a fast way through the impact zone using the energy of the wave to your advantage. Choose a wave of a size you are comfortable surfing. Often the first of new set will be smaller and break closer in to shore, so when the sea looks flat is a good time to go for it. Time your approach to catch a wave as it begins to form. As the swell lifts your stern lean forward and paddle hard. Sometimes some final, rapid, powerful strokes will make the difference between catching a wave and not. Once surfing, use stern rudders to stay perpendicular to or maintain a slight angle to the face of the wave. As the wave steepens and is about to break, sweep or stern rudder the kayak into a broach position and lean onto a low brace. It can be tempting to use a high brace when a huge pillow of white-water engulfs you, but the danger of shoulder injuries means this is poor technique and should be avoided. The wave will surf you into the soup zone in this broach position and often right to the beach. This is a good general technique for negotiating any surf except dumping surf, for which the following is the preferred option.

Landing on the back of the wave

To avoid the violent impact zone of dumping surf stay on the back of the wave. Position yourself just outside the impact zone. Get a feel for the size and frequency of the waves as they break beyond you. Choose a moderate sized wave and paddle onto its crest. This technique requires impeccable timing, paddling forward and back paddling as required to keep the kayak horizontal, avoiding both falling off the back of the wave and dropping down the face as it breaks. Paddle hard to shore, especially if steep, pulling the spray tab as soon as you are certain you won't be dragged back toward the waves. Jump out immediately and drag your boat clear.

Surfing all the way i

You can surf all the way to the beach without broaching with skill and the right type of wave. With a wave that breaks progressively, steer away from breaking water beside you and surf along the unbroken wall of water on the other side of you. To prevent turning out of the wave you will need to rudder on the down hillside whist tilting toward the wave.

Special circumstances

With a rocky shore landing, backing in may be an option to give you greater control and avoid being surfed into the rocks. With bigger waves I find it better to be patient and land in a window between waves. If someone swims, trying a rescue may be of greater hazard to the swimmer than letting them deal with the situation themselves. Don't rush in. Read the situation carefully and make a calculated decision.

Check out rules one, two and three. They apply equally here also. Consider taking whitewater lessons if possible. The skills and reactions learned are invaluable to sea kayakers and whitewater boaters alike. And practice in surf that poses a reasonable challenge, with people you have confidence in. Make sure you are familiar with wave surfing etiquette if you are sharing the surf with other users. Surfers don't take too kindly to five meters of sideways kayak bearing down on them!

So, decide whether surf is something you want to enjoy or survive. Whether surf becomes an absorbing diversion, or an exercise in absorbing water is up to you.

Graham Charles is part of the Adventure Philosophy team. Check out their website at www.adventurephilosophy.com.