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First Complete Ascent of Mt. Stuart's North Ridge
Took six attempts over 17 years
by Natasha Nowakowski
March 3rd, 2005

Mark Bunker and Colin Haley recently bagged the first winter ascent of the complete North Ridge of Mount Stuart in Washington. The North Ridge includes 3,000 feet of isolated granite climbing. The climb was Bunker's, at 42, sixth attempt over 17 years. The duo attempted the route in December but were forced to retreat halfway up due to severe weather.

The recent warm weather and rain followed by a freeze created ideal conditions for another attempt. The team bivied at the base of the route on the first day, and proceeded to climb two aid pitches on dry rock to the North Ridge Notch. After a third bivy, the team aid climbed the Great Gendarme pitches, and finally reached the summit in the dark at 11:15pm. They downclimbed via the Sherpa Glacier Couloir.

 

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